Page 6:2 Corrosion protection

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Corrosion protection, inspection and touching-up Your Volvo was carefully and thoroughly rustproofed at the factory. The underbody and wheelarches were sprayed with a tick, durable, rustproofing compound and the beams, internal cavities and end sec- tions were sprayed with a low viscous, penetrating rustproofing agent. What can be done to maintain the corrosion protection? Keep your car clean. Hose down the underbody*, wheelarches and the edges of the wings    using high water pressure. * Support arms, control arm struts, spring struts and suspension seats. The corrosion protection must be inspected by your Volvo workshop See your Service Booklet. If your car needs to be treated because of damage, consult your local dealer.

The compound used to rustproof your car does not require any re- treatment, under normal conditions, for the first eight years. After this time the treatment should be carried out every 3 years. In order to assure good results this work should be carried out at your Volvo workshop.

Page 6:3 Corrosion protection

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The visible rustproofing You should check the visible (external) rustproofing at regular intervals. If it is necessary to touch-up the rustproofing, this should be done immediately to prevent moisture ingress. Consult your volvo dealer. If you wish to do the work yourself, wash and dry the car and make sure that the surface to be repaired is thoroughly dry and free from all traces or dirt. Use spray-on or brush-on rustproofing compounds, There are two different types of rustproofing compounds.: - Thin (transparent), for visible sections - Thick, for sections on the underbody and wheelhousing which suffer    the most wear. Parts of the car which may need to be touched-up with recommend- ed rustproofing compound are: - visible welded seams and panels seams - thin liquid - underbody and wheel housings - thick liquid - bonnet - thin liquid - door hinges - thick liquid - bonnet hinges and locks After completion of all work on the vehicle, remove excess rustproofing compound with a cloth soaked in white spirit. The engine compartment has been sprayed with a wax-based, trans- parant rustproofing compound which is resistant to normal (non- aromatic) engine cleaners. If, however, you use an engine cleaner which contains solvents such as white spirits or turpentine it will be necessary to apply a suitable wax-based rustproofing compound to reobtain the original protection. This is available from your Volvo dealer.

Page 6:4 Paintwork damage

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Paintwork damage Paintwork damage requires immediate at- tention to avoid the formation of rust. It is therfore a good idea to make a habit of regurly checking the paintwork and to touch-up where necessary, e.g. stone chips and scratches flaking, e.g. wing edges When touching up the paintwork of the car, it should be clean and dry and have a tempe- rature in excess of +15°C. Colour code When ordering touch-up paint from your Volvo dealer, use the colour code number shown on the type designation plate on the plate above the right headlamp.

Minor stone chips and scratches Material: Primer - tin Paint - tin or touch-up Brush Masking tape If the stone chip has not penetrated down to the metal and an undamaged layer of paint remains, the touch-up paint can be applied as soon as the spot has been cleaned. If the stone chip has penetrated down to the metal, proceed as follows: Place a strip of masking tape over the    damage surface. Pull the tape off so that    any loose flakes of paint adhere to it.

Stir the primer well and apply to the    damaged area with a fine brush or match-    stick. See figure 2. When the primer has dried, apply a surface    coat with a brush. Make sure that the paint    has been well stirred and apply it thinly in    several layers, allowing it to dry between    each application.

Page 6:5 Paintwork damage

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For scratches proceed as already described    but it may be advisable to use masking tape    to protect the undamaged paintwork. See fi-    gure 3. Wait a day or two before applying the    finishing coat. Use a soft rag to apply the    grinding paste and polish any    blemishes. Apply the paste sparingly.

Touching up wing edges and sills Material: Primer: aerosol spray Paint: aerosol spray Masking tape When large surfaces have to be repainted, suitably mask the surrounding area with masking tape and paper. Remove this masking as soon as the final coat has been sprayed on, before the paint dries. Remove loose flakes of paint with masking tape. Shake the aerosol for at least 1 minute. Spray on the primer. Move the spray can slowly and regularly from side to side, about 20-30 cm (8-12") from the surface.

When the primer has dried apply the    surface enamel in the same way. Spray    on several times and allow the paint to    dry a few minutes between each applic-    tion.

Page 6:6 Washing

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Washing the car The car should be washed as frequently as possible, particularly during the winter when road salt and moisture can easily lead to corrosion. The car can be washed as follows: Hose off the dirt underneath and body (wheelarches, wing edges etc.) Hose down the entire car to soften any dirt etc. If the car is exceptionally dirty, first wash it with a cold degreasing    agent. Wash with a sponge (with our without detergent) using plenty of    water. Use tepid but not hot water. Hose down with cold water. Dry with a clean, soft chamois-leather. Electric aerials should be lubricated sparingly with a rag coated    in oil. Electric aerials be lubricated sparingly with a few drops of    washing-up liquid. Remove dirt with a nail brush. Suitables detergents Car wash detergent or a dessertspoon of ordinary washing-up liquid di- luted with 10 liter of water. Spots on trim moulding around windows, wings and doors can be re- moved with a suitable polish (never use abrasive cutting paste or steel wool). Other cromed parts can be cleaned with a chrome restorer. Bird droppings Remove from paintwork as soon as possible. Otherwise the finish will be irreparably damaged.

CAUTION: When the car is driven away immediately after washing gently apply the brakes several times as the car is moving slowly in order to dry off the brakes. Note: When washing the car, remember to remove dirt from all of the drainage holes.

Page 6:7 Automatic car washing, Polishing and waxing

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Automatic car washing An automatic car wash is a simple and quick way to clean your car, but it is worth remembering that it can never be as thorough as when you, yourself, go over the car with a sponge and water. Keeping the under- body clean is most important, especially in the winter. Not all car washes have facilities for washing underbody. Before driving into an automatic wash, make sure that auxiliary lamps etc., are secure, otherwise there is risk of the machine dislodging them. You should also remove or retract the aerial. Lift the headlamp wiper blades over the lower stop to prevent the machine brushes from damaging the wiper mechanism. (Do not forget to return the wiper arms to their original position.) Use only automatic car washes with clean brushes. We recommended that you do not wash your car in an automatic wash during the first six months because the paint will not have hardened sufficiently.

Polishing and waxing The car should be polished and waxed when the surface finish begins to lose its lustre and when you want to give the car extra protection. Normally it is not necessary to polish the car during the first year after delivery. However, washing may be beneficial. Wash and dry the car thoroughly before polishing and/or waxing. Re- move tar spots with spirits or a tar remover. Larger spots may require a fine rubbing compound. First polish with the polishing agent and then wax either with a fluid of solid wax. Several commercially available products contain both polish and wax. Read the instructions carefully. A wide range of polymer-based car waxes can puchased today. The waxes are easy to use and produce a long lasting highgloss finish which protects the bodywork against oxidation, road dirt and fading.

Page 6:8 Cleaning the interior

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Cleaning leather upholstery Never scrub or rub a stain. Do not use concentrated stain removers. Wash with a mild soapy solution and lukewarm water. Cleaning the seat belts Clean only with lukewarm water and a mild soap solution. Removing stains from floor mats Remove stains as soon as possible. Scrape off the dirt with a blunt knife and remove the surplus with a vacuum cleaner. Apply a suitable solvent with a clean white cloth. Remove the sol- vent and the stain with cotton wool. Repeat until the stain is removed. Bear in mind Take extra care when removing stains such as ink or lipstick as the    colouring can spread. Use solvents sparingly. Start from the outside of the stain and work towards the centre.

text en picture's from Owners manual Model year 1990

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