Page 6:1 Car care

Car care

Proper car care involves more than just the
appearance of your car. The exterior must be
protected from the effects of air pollution,
rain and mud. The rustproofing under the
car should be regularly checked and any
damaged areas treated. Damaged paintwork
must also be treated immediately to prevent
rust formation.
Page 6:1 Car care and this index
Page 6:2 Corrosion protection
Page 6:4 Paintwork damage
Page 6:6 Washing the car
Page 6:8 Cleaning the upholstery





Page 6:2 Corrosion protection
Go To Top of Page.

Corrosion protection, inspection and
touching-up

Your Volvo was carefully and thoroughly rustproofed at the factory.
The underbody and wheelarches were sprayed with a tick, durable,
rustproofing compound and the beams, internal cavities and end sec-
tions were sprayed with a low viscous, penetrating rustproofing agent.
What can be done to maintain the corrosion protection?
  • Keep your car clean.
  • Hose down the underbody*, wheelarches and the edges of the wings
       using high water pressure.


    * Support arms, control arm struts, spring struts and suspension seats.







    The corrosion protection must be inspected by your Volvo workshop
    See your Service Booklet. If your car needs to be treated because of
    damage, consult your local dealer.




  • The compound used to rustproof your car does not require any re-
    treatment, under normal conditions, for the first eight years. After
    this time the treatment should be carried out every 3 years. In order
    to assure good results this work should be carried out at your
    Volvo workshop.





















    Page 6:3 Corrosion protection

    Go To Top of Page.

    The visible rustproofing

    You should check the visible (external) rustproofing at regular intervals.
    If it is necessary to touch-up the rustproofing, this should be done
    immediately to prevent moisture ingress. Consult your volvo dealer.
    If you wish to do the work yourself, wash and dry the car and make sure
    that the surface to be repaired is thoroughly dry and free from all traces
    or dirt. Use spray-on or brush-on rustproofing compounds,

    There are two different types of rustproofing compounds.:
    - Thin (transparent), for visible sections
    - Thick, for sections on the underbody and wheelhousing which suffer
       the most wear.

    Parts of the car which may need to be touched-up with recommend-
    ed rustproofing compound are:
    - visible welded seams and panels seams - thin liquid
    - underbody and wheel housings - thick liquid
    - bonnet - thin liquid
    - door hinges - thick liquid
    - bonnet hinges and locks

    After completion of all work on the vehicle, remove excess rustproofing
    compound with a cloth soaked in white spirit.

    The engine compartment has been sprayed with a wax-based, trans-
    parant rustproofing compound which is resistant to normal (non-
    aromatic) engine cleaners. If, however, you use an engine cleaner which
    contains solvents such as white spirits or turpentine it will be necessary
    to apply a suitable wax-based rustproofing compound to reobtain the
    original protection.
    This is available from your Volvo dealer.










    Corrosion protection












    Page 6:4 Paintwork damage

    Go To Top of Page.

    Paintwork damage

    Paintwork damage requires immediate at-
    tention to avoid the formation of rust. It is
    therfore a good idea to make a habit of
    regurly checking the paintwork and to
    touch-up where necessary, e.g.
  • stone chips and scratches
  • flaking, e.g. wing edges

    When touching up the paintwork of the car,
    it should be clean and dry and have a tempe-
    rature in excess of +15°C.

    Colour code

    When ordering touch-up paint from your
    Volvo dealer, use the colour code number
    shown on the type designation plate on the
    plate above the right headlamp.







    Colour code
  • Minor stone chips and scratches

    Material:
  • Primer - tin
  • Paint - tin or touch-up
  • Brush
  • Masking tape
    If the stone chip has not penetrated down to
    the metal and an undamaged layer of paint
    remains, the touch-up paint can be applied
    as soon as the spot has been cleaned.

    If the stone chip has penetrated down to
    the metal, proceed as follows:

  • Place a strip of masking tape over the
       damage surface. Pull the tape off so that
       any loose flakes of paint adhere to it.



    Remove loose paint flakes with masking tape
  • Stir the primer well and apply to the
       damaged area with a fine brush or match-
       stick. See figure 2.


    Brush or primer







  • When the primer has dried, apply a surface
       coat with a brush. Make sure that the paint
       has been well stirred and apply it thinly in
       several layers, allowing it to dry between
       each application.








  • Page 6:5 Paintwork damage
    Go To Top of Page.

  • For scratches proceed as already described
       but it may be advisable to use masking tape
       to protect the undamaged paintwork. See fi-
       gure 3.

    Mask surrounding area


  • Wait a day or two before applying the
       finishing coat. Use a soft rag to apply the
       grinding paste and polish any
       blemishes. Apply the paste sparingly.




  • Touching up wing edges and sills

    Material:
  • Primer: aerosol spray
  • Paint: aerosol spray
  • Masking tape
    When large surfaces have to be repainted,
    suitably mask the surrounding area with masking tape and paper.
    Remove this masking as soon as the final
    coat has been sprayed on, before the paint
    dries.
    Remove loose flakes of paint with masking
    tape.
    Shake the aerosol for at least 1 minute.
    Spray on the primer.
    Move the spray can slowly and regularly
    from side to side, about 20-30 cm (8-12")
    from the surface.









  • Hold aerosol vertically



  • When the primer has dried apply the
       surface enamel in the same way. Spray
       on several times and allow the paint to
       dry a few minutes between each applic-
       tion.









  • Page 6:6 Washing

    Go To Top of Page.

    Washing the car

    The car should be washed as frequently as possible, particularly during
    the winter when road salt and moisture can easily lead to corrosion.

    The car can be washed as follows:
  • Hose off the dirt underneath and body (wheelarches, wing edges etc.)
  • Hose down the entire car to soften any dirt etc.
  • If the car is exceptionally dirty, first wash it with a cold degreasing
       agent.
  • Wash with a sponge (with our without detergent) using plenty of
       water. Use tepid but not hot water.
  • Hose down with cold water.
  • Dry with a clean, soft chamois-leather.
  • Electric aerials should be lubricated sparingly with a rag coated
       in oil.
  • Electric aerials be lubricated sparingly with a few drops of
       washing-up liquid. Remove dirt with a nail brush.

    Suitables detergents

    Car wash detergent or a dessertspoon of ordinary washing-up liquid di-
    luted with 10 liter of water.
    Spots on trim moulding around windows, wings and doors can be re-
    moved with a suitable polish (never use abrasive cutting paste or steel
    wool).
    Other cromed parts can be cleaned with a chrome restorer.

    Bird droppings

    Remove from paintwork as soon as possible. Otherwise the finish will
    be irreparably damaged.






  • CAUTION:
    When the car is driven away immediately after washing gently
    apply the brakes several times as the car is moving slowly in
    order to dry off the brakes.













    Note: When washing the car, remember to remove dirt from all
    of the drainage holes.







    Drainage holes







    Page 6:7 Automatic car washing, Polishing and waxing

    Go To Top of Page.

    Automatic car washing

    An automatic car wash is a simple and quick way to clean your car, but
    it is worth remembering that it can never be as thorough as when you,
    yourself, go over the car with a sponge and water. Keeping the under-
    body clean is most important, especially in the winter. Not all car
    washes have facilities for washing underbody.
    Before driving into an automatic wash, make sure that auxiliary lamps
    etc., are secure, otherwise there is risk of the machine dislodging them.
    You should also remove or retract the aerial.
    Lift the headlamp wiper blades over the lower stop to prevent the
    machine brushes from damaging the wiper mechanism. (Do not forget
    to return the wiper arms to their original position.)
    Use only automatic car washes with clean brushes.
    We recommended that you do not wash your car
    in an automatic wash during the first six
    months because the paint will not have hardened sufficiently.


    Polishing and waxing

    The car should be polished and waxed when the surface finish begins
    to lose its lustre and when you want to give the car extra protection.
    Normally it is not necessary to polish the car during the first year after
    delivery. However, washing may be beneficial.
    Wash and dry the car thoroughly before polishing and/or waxing. Re-
    move tar spots with spirits or a tar remover. Larger spots may
    require a fine rubbing compound.
    First polish with the polishing agent and then wax either with a fluid of
    solid wax.
    Several commercially available products contain both polish and wax.
    Read the instructions carefully.
    A wide range of polymer-based car waxes can puchased today. The
    waxes are easy to use and produce a long lasting highgloss finish
    which protects the bodywork against oxidation, road dirt and fading.








    Page 6:8 Cleaning the interior

    Go To Top of Page.

    Cleaning leather upholstery

    Never scrub or rub a stain.
    Do not use concentrated stain removers.
    Wash with a mild soapy solution and lukewarm water.

    Cleaning the seat belts

    Clean only with lukewarm water and a mild soap solution.

    Removing stains from floor mats

    Remove stains as soon as possible. Scrape off the dirt with a blunt
    knife and remove the surplus with a vacuum cleaner.
    Apply a suitable solvent with a clean white cloth. Remove the sol-
    vent and the stain with cotton wool. Repeat until the stain is
    removed.

    Bear in mind

  • Take extra care when removing stains such as ink or lipstick as the
       colouring can spread.
  • Use solvents sparingly.
  • Start from the outside of the stain and work towards the centre.


  • text en picture's from Owners manual Model year 1990

    Go To Top of Page